İstanbul, Eminönü, Haliç and a trip up the Bosphorus.

Is it Europe or is it Asia? Geographically both, but İstanbul feels like Asia with some European influence and is a flavoursome melting pot of each continent. Admittedly, I did spend most of my time on the European side, but yet there is still a heavy Asian influence, with a proliferation of mosques and Islamic script in every district of Istanbul, and the wailing sound of the Muezzins across the city issuing their call to prayer. And even though İstanbul is a mere 1,555 miles from London, it feels like a long way from home.

There is so much to see in this colossal city (population of approximately 15.8 million), you could stay for weeks, maybe months, and still not exhaust the list of things to do or see. Beyond the major sights like the Hagia Sophia, the Blue Mosque, Topkapi Palace and the Galata Tower, there is a whole slice of İstanbul life just waiting to be explored. Thankfully, İstanbul is well served with public transport, so getting from A to B isn’t too much of a problem. In fact, it isn’t a problem at all.

So, here I was in İstanbul, and a whole raft of adventures lay before me. Calling briefly at the tourist information office, very conveniently located just off Sultanahmet Park and not far from the Hagia Sophia, I got some information about entrance fees for museums and duly helped myself to bundles of leaflets about various tours and things to do. Armed with my Lonely Planet, I quickly exited the building to explore this great city. I soon found that İstanbul can be quite overwhelming, as there is so much to see and take in. It is a city full of myriad sights, experiences, sounds and smells.

Looking northeast over the Bosphorus
Looking south over Halic, towards the Sea of Marmara

The next challenge was buying the all-important red İstanbulkaart which was another hurdle, I and many other tourists had to overcome. Eventually, I purchased one from this chap who was hanging around the charging station conveniently located by the tram stop, probably for a slightly more inflated price than what I would have paid at the Metro station. Nonetheless, it opened wide the gateway to public transport. Another reason I wanted to purchase an İstanbulkaart so quickly was I wanted to use the public toilets nearby, and one method of entry was yes, you guessed it, this humble but now vital little red card (same colour as the Turkish flag).

Istanbulkaart & local currency
Street signs near the Blue Mosque
Turkish Tea Set
Minaret
View from the restaurant

Later, I headed down to the waterfront at Eminönü where many of the ferries dock, and being frenetic, noisy and lively, it became a fascinating insight into İstanbul life around the water. If you want to get around the city, then by boat is best and sooner or later, you will eventually arrive here. Eminonu is the vital crossing-over point to other districts of Istanbul; by ferry or over the Galata Bridge on foot, by bus, car or tram. The Metro uses the Golden Horn, or Halic Bridge, further up the estuary. Whether you are heading to Karaköy, Beşittaş, or Kadıköy, there will be a ferry or some other suitable mode of transport for you.

The busy waterways of İstanbul are alive with water-borne craft and floods of people on them, and once I had worked out that the İstanbulkaart was my ticket to ride, resembling a multi-purpose Oyster card, I used it with great liberality. I now realise why there never seemed to be any ticket office staff at the ferry docks; you just don’t need them. You can use the İstanbulkaart on ferries, trams, buses and the Metro after you have applied some credit to it by presenting the card at one of the innumerable charging stations across the city and stuffing the machine with Turkish Lira (you can use your credit card but cash is simpler). You can then travel in any direction and on just about anything you fancy for a very cheap price.

And that is what I did. By the end of the week, I was getting about like a local, even giving some confused visitors instructions on how they could get to their chosen destination. As would be expected in an area laden with tourists, there were plenty of ticket touts selling overpriced circular boat trips, but thinking this would be a superb way of viewing this vast metropolis as a whole from the water, I purchased my ticket and boarded the boat with a mass of other tourists eager to experience maritime joy with a cruise up the Bosphorus.

The boat left the ferry dock and we surged out over slightly rough water disturbed by a gusting sea breeze, heading in the direction of the Bosphorus Bridge and the Black Sea beyond it. Hugging the European bank of this iconic Strait and cruising past the beautiful and ornate Dolmabahçe Palace in Beşittaş, we turned in the shadow of the Bosphorus Bridge and sailed down the Asian side of İstanbul, before heading back to ferry docks at Eminönü.

There is nothing like being with a boatload of passengers and observing first-hand the many and varied interactions between families, friends, honeymooning couples, tourists and others. İstanbul is magnetic in its draw towards visitors from all over the world and there is much to be gained, experienced, viewed, savoured and enjoyed. This city that forms the bridge between Asia and Europe will leave a lasting impression on you and will provide a lifetime of memories that will neither diminish or fade.

İstanbul.

Destinations, Travel, Turkey

Baking in the heat and humidity of the late summer sun in coastal İstanbul, I began to explore, observe, listen and understand this new environment, discovering again that cities are wonderful places to people watch. There is a burgeoning population here of almost 18 million locals, jostling alongside waves of fascinated tourists from around the world thronging to see the ancient wonders of this ‘second’ city in Western Turkey. In regard to touristic overload, it reminded me of the packed crowds of travellers in Venice, but, I am an İstanbul newbie and everything is just wow.

İstanbul sits between the Sea of Marmara to the south and the Black Sea to the North. It’s also famously that bridge between Asia in the East and Europe in the West. It feels truly significant and magnificent… Roman, Byzantine, and Ottoman influences and architecture dot the city as İstanbul’s Islamic culture and religion continue to dominate life here in this modern, busy metropolis. There are mosques everywhere you look, of varying shapes and sizes, but all of them are architectural triumphs and ornately, and beautifully fashioned.

İstanbul is big, in fact, it is huge. A city built on seven hills, set on both sides of the Bosphorus Strait, there is a lot of life and much going on here. There are numerous districts on both the European and Asian side, but I was staying in the proverbial thick of it, in Sultanahmet. Here you will discover 3 of the most prominent and sought-after sights: the Aya Sofya, the Blue Mosque (Sultanahmet Camii) and the pavillions and harem of Topkapı Palace. The call to prayer rings out regularly across Sultanahmet at the expected times in the daily Islamic calendar, summoning the devout and pious to prayer and worship. Its mournful cry reverberates across the city and is of course deeply emblematic of this and every Islamic nation.

There is so much to see in İstanbul: Byzantine and Ottoman treasures galore. It’s a little challenging to know where to start but you have to start somewhere. One thing you quickly realise is that in İstanbul, boats are king, because there is so much water everywhere and they appear to be the preferred means of transport. Sultanahmet, the Bazaar and Western Districts nestle in the south, and they are separated from Beyoğlu, Karaköy and Beşitaş in the north by a large stretch of water called the Golden Horn, locally known as, Haliç. But If boats aren’t your thing, then the city is ably served with an extensive tram and metro network too.

To the East, the Asian side of İstanbul (principal area of interest is Kadıköy), is sperated by the main Bosphurus Strait. I remember gazing down at these waterways from Topkapı Palace, and the seeemingly imnumrable boats criss-crossing this way and that, and I counted about 60 vessels in the water at any one time. Significantly, there is steady flow of maritime traffic coming up from the Mediterranean via the Dardanelles Strait, and across the Sea of Marmara, heading towards various ports in the Black Sea. I’m slightly suprised there aren’t more boat crashes, because they all seem to be going in different directions at the same time!

There is much more to say about the city of İstanbul, but this will suffice for now as I gather my thoughts and consider what an absorbing, engaging and pervasive experience this visit was.

Colossus

Destinations, Travel, Turkey

Arriving into Istanbul by air simply takes your breath away. Passing the Bulgarian border into the far western landscape of Turkey, you soon find yourself skirting the northern coast of the Sea of Marmara heading towards Istanbul.

As the plane banks left and thunders north towards the main international airport, in the direction of the Black Sea, you cannot be anything but amazed.

Huge. That is the only way of describing the city of Istanbul and its environs. Seemingly endless. That would be another alternative in describing this vast slice of human habitation.

Eventually escaping the airport and driving back towards Sultanahmet, as you approach the Ataturk Bridge, you are once again overwhelmed by the sheer scale of Turkey’s ‘second city,’ (Ankara is actually the capital).

In this deeply Islamic country, there would seem to be a mosque atop every hill, and whatever your religious or spiritual predilections maybe, architecturally and historically, they are a magnetically fascinating and engaging sight.

JAM, Kenya

Blog, Destinations, Kenya, Travel

In the far reaches of Western Kenya, a charity known as Justice and Mercy, has been reaching out to the poor and disadvantaged for over 25 years. Founded in 1997 by Rachel Woolmer and Amanda Thomas, JAM is the classic, ‘from small acorns, great trees grow’ organisation.

In April 2022, I travelled to Oyugis in Western Kenya with Rachel Woolmer, to see this work that had been started all those years ago. And not only to witness what JAM were achieving now but to meet the local people that were running this charitable outreach to the poor. Principally, we came to meet Kennedy Okoth Otieno, appointed CEO from the start and still in situ today.

We began our time by meeting the staff at JAM headquarters, just down the road from Kennedy’s house. We talked with staff running the office, the finance director and some of the medical personnel who were preparing for the influx of patients for their newly, government-funded clinic. With this funding in place, they will be able to provide much-needed healthcare for the people living in the villages nearby.

We visited the baby unit that was equipped to help women through the trauma of childbirth and beyond. It’s so wonderful that these facilities exist here in what is quite a remote region of Kenya, with many people living in the hills and on the plains in villages nearby. It was with pride that Kennedy was able to show us around and demonstrate what was on offer.

Alongside the medical facilities, we were shown the piece of ground within the JAM campus known as the demonstration plot. Here, local people are shown the best ways of cultivating drought-resistant crops and how to achieve the highest yield. It really is a great way of helping local villagers in a sustainable and positive way, re-educating them for the best possible outcomes.

The next morning we had a lovely time with the staff in the on-campus chapel where I was able to share some encouragement with the team. We later climbed into the JAM off-road vehicle and we visited some of the villages that are working with and benefiting from JAM intervention through their food security and animal husbandry schemes. This is all about making these villages self-sustainable and giving them a more positive and profitable future.

I spoke with Kennedy Okoth Otieno, Director & CEO of JAM, and he told me that they are seeking to ‘sow the seeds of a brighter future’ through transformation of “…rural community widows, poor farmers, people living with HIV, and Vulnerable Children.” Since 1995 when JAM began, God has guided Kennedy on His own path to mould this organization into a “…community-based organisation currently running five important projects: Integrated Health and community clinic, Food Security through Rural Organic farming, Education and psycho-social support, Water and sanitation, and finally Peacebuilding and reconciliation in western Kenya.”

Apart from coordinating these vital projects, Kennedy has also spent much time engaged in fundraising and doing presentations at international conferences, churches, and institutions. In addition, In 2019, he was honoured by a German international organization through the award of a Ph.D. Scholarship to undertake PhD in Development Studies.

In between his studies, Kennedy works for the organization twice a week, with a view to becoming a consultant within this field in the future. This, he feels, will help to expand fundraising and partnership with churches and schools.

Kennedy and his family accommodated us during our time in Oyugis and were so hospitable treating us to some real Kenyan food including that most Kenyan of all staples: Ugali. This really is an alternative to rice and goes well with fish, meat, and vegetables.

The Kenyans are such a musical and joyous people and we often met with singing when we visited different villages, which was a lovely experience in itself. I love that JAM is making a real, palpable difference in the lives of local Kenyans.

Kenya, East Africa 2022

Blog, Destinations, Kenya, Travel

I have wanted to come to Africa for many years, but my travels have taken me frequently to South Asia. So, when I had clear opportunity to visit Kenya in East Africa, proverbial wild horses could not have stopped me.

Having been a frequent visitor to the Indian subcontinent, there was something familiar with the climate, vegetation, roadside stalls and shops and just the feel of the country. However, culturally, Africa is very different from India. Of course these differences only served to heighten my enjoyment of my new environment, if only for the sake of variety.

Kenya is without doubt a beautiful country, and one week in, I was really loving it. Staying with a family initially in Oyugis, we had met plenty of locals which is a fantastic way to begin to understand a nation and its culture. And culture of course is everything – the way a nation feels, thinks, reacts, behaves and basically does life is all part and parcel of what we call culture.

For me, travel has always been about the people you meet and not just the places you visit. Having said that, Kenya is massively replete with adventures and amazing places to see. Whether you love the coast, want to visit mountains, go on safari, explore a tea plantation, Kenya will keep producing the goods, again and again.

And without doubt, I will be returning to Kenya. I mean, why wouldn’t you? Admittedly, there were some security concerns with the current elections going on, and a potential terrorism threat mainly in the North East from Al Shabaab (a result of the Kenyan military intervention in Somalia), but the draw of East Africa is simply magnetic. So yes, I will definitely be coming back, and what is more, I would encourage you to do the same. Just be careful and vigilant, but more than anything, enjoy it…

Sarova Lion Hill Game Lodge, Kenya

Blog, Destinations, Food, Kenya, Travel

Sarova Lion Hill Game Lodge is situated on the eastern shores of fabulous Lake Nakuru. And as such, it is perfectly positioned to provide you with the experience of a lifetime, which is exactly what we enjoyed.

Location, location, location – Sarova has it all. Every morning, we were treated to panoramic views of the Lake, watching pelicans lazily flapping their way across the water and hearing the distinctive calls of the African Fish Eagles amongst the trees below.

We had our own local guy for the Game Drives, and on the 2 separate safaris, we were treated to sightings of Rhino, Hippopotamus, Zebras, Impalas, Lions, Giraffes, an Ostrich, Eland, Waterbuck, Thompson’s Gazelle, Warthog and many others. The birdlife, including the sheer mass of Lesser (and some Greater) Flamingos congregating at the Southern end of the lake, is also rich and varied, so bring a pair of binoculars with you.

In addition to an amazing location, Sarova also has a highly efficient, friendly and helpful complement of staff who are very proactive, and seem to anticipate your every need and want. Always in attendance, but without being overbearing, I feel they have stuck a perfect balance which is most refreshing.

Staying for 5 nights, we soon got to know many of the lovely people that work there. Angela, Alex and Fred in particular, really looked after us, and made us feel very welcome indeed. It seemed like nothing we requested was too much trouble and they most definitely enhanced our stay. Poolside, we met Morgan and Marie who were great fun and again, added value to our experience at Sarova.

Another important part of the Lion Hill experience is the outstanding food on offer. The variety of roasted and pan fried meat and fish available every night was simply mouthwatering. Alongside this, there were local dishes of stewed goat with a good selection of vegetables plus a range of Indian dishes with chapattis. East Africa has a significant Indian influence, hence the infiltration of the menu with Asian flavours.

Jayne (on the right), with some of her reception staff

During our stay, we met Jayne the General Manager, and Damaris who is Head Chef. Both outstanding ladies doing a fantastic job in the aftermath of COVID, and thankfully, visitors are now beginning to return to Kenya. East Africa really needs our tourist dollars, pounds and euros! Before we left, I was able to chat to Moses, the head of security, and I was impressed with the level of care Sarova take in this important area.

If you want an unforgettable experience right in the heart of one of Kenya’s National Parks, then I urge you to come and stay at Sarova Lion Hill Game Lodge. There is much more I could write, but I hope this has given you a taste of what’s out there for you to enjoy.

Kenya: Kendu Bay & Homa Bay

Blog, Destinations, Kenya, Travel

So our host decided to drive us around Homa Bay County and show us his home turf. We went straight to Kendu Bay where the bright sunlight was reminiscent of a previous holiday in the Bahamas. Simply outstanding. Fresh fish, diverse birdlife and a gorgeous Kenyan blue sky, which was guaranteed to sweep away the winter and possibly, COVID blues. We sat in a cafe by the lake shore and drank bitter lemon, mango juice and and beer.

Actually, the birdlife really is amazing. In a few short minutes, I had spotted Little Egret, Cattle Egret, Great White Egret, Pied Kingfisher, Hamerkop, Cormorants and others. If that lot doesn’t get your ornithological juices running, nothing will.

In terms of birding, the whole of the Kenya trip was pretty much like that; one awe inspiring sight after another. Leaving Kendu Bay, we travelled a short distance to Simbi Lake where I witnessed a great wash of pink gathered at one end of the shoreline, iridescent in the bright African sunshine. It was my very first flock of Lesser Flamingos, and what a beautiful sight it was too.

Moving on, we eventually arrived at Homa Bay situated at the bottom end of the Winam Gulf, that feeds into Lake Victoria. This time, the birdwatching went up several more notches as the avian world blended seamlessly with the human one.

Two words: Marabou Storks. These large, and to be completely honest, somewhat ugly birds were everywhere. On the roofs of houses, on the shoreline, in the sky above us. In fact, they are so big, it felt like a scene out of Jurassic World when the beleaguered tourists were being dive-bombed by pterodactyls.

I don’t think Homa Bay is really a tourist town, from what I could see anyway. Down near the shoreline, it was just full of fishermen, birds (waiting for titbits from the fishermen no doubt), locals selling fish cooked and uncooked, and families enjoying the breezy sunshine down near the water. The whole place had a busy, but relaxed and laid back feel.

It may well be off the beaten track and not an obvious tourist destination, but I really recommend a visit to this remote part of Western Kenya – you won’t be disappointed!

Miss Mykonos, Aristotle, Athens, and two taxi drivers (an exploration of Greece).

Blog, Destinations, Greece, Travel

“You have to decide the kind of life that you want to live, or the person that you want to be.” Those were the words, or something similar to them that my taxi driver said to me, as I sat in the back, en route to Athens International Airport. The story he told me during the short 30 minute night-time journey left me with a feeling of incredulity.

He lived and worked in Athens as a taxi driver but also owned a holiday home on a Greek island, which provided a valuable source of income. He told a tale of oil rich Arabs from the Middle East that had arrived on the island with literally holdalls full of euros, and my driver had provided transport for these visitors to the island. They would offer him 10,000 Euros to go and get drugs, girls or whatever they wanted. Money was no object whatsoever.

My taxi driver was clearly an ethical and righteous man and refused their generous, but outrageous offer. As we parted company at departures, I pondered his account of the corrupting influence of money and the Aristotle-like wisdom he had offered me – all included in the price of taxi fare! Later, before I caught my flight back to Thessaloniki, I encountered Miss Mykonos 2018 with a small child in tow, which was a salutary reminder that however glamourous your day job may be, we have all got mouths to feed and bills to pay.

In the preceding days, I had spent three enjoyable nights at the superbly appointed Hotel Sir Athens in Greece’s ancient, political and philosophical capital, having joined my friends, Emmanouil and Antigoni in the city whilst they attended a conference. Eleni, the boutique hotel’s part-owner really looked after me and made me feel very welcome. Sir Athens was modern, comfortable, well equipped and conveniently situated.

I really loved Athens, or at least parts of it. I wasn’t so enamoured with the endless, uniform rows of air conditioned accommodation blocks sprawled out across the city marching towards the horizon, but if ancient culture and civilisations are your thing, Athens has it by the bucket load. And understandably, it has tourists by the bucket load too, and whilst not on the same scale as Venice in terms of visitor numbers, be prepared to rub shoulders with crowds of adoring travellers from all over the globe.

The Acropolis pretty much stands at the top of the list, including the Theatre of Dionysus, Odeon of Herodes Atticus, the Temple of Athena Nike and of course, it’s crowning glory: The Parthenon. Don’t forget the Acropolis museum just across the way though – it is superb. Three main floors of ancient antiquity to keep you endlessly fascinated, and it is not to be missed. The Areopagus is nearby and the fascinating Temple of Zeus is located in a different part of the city.

Having suitably feasted on the sights and sounds of both ancient and modern Greece, I decided it was time to return to my hotel. However, I soon discovered that I was having trouble explaining to the Greek taxi driver where my hotel was, so I phoned Eleni and gave the phone to the driver. After a fairly animated discussion between the two of them in their mother tongue, the location of the hotel was identified, but having seen her WhatsApp profile picture on my mobile, the taxi driver then exclaimed in English to her, “You’re beautiful!”

Well, that’s the Greeks for you, and as an Englishman, I suddenly felt very dull and inhibited although I couldn’t argue with his conclusion about my host. That eclectic mix and splash of local culture and colour is surely what travel is all about, and I love it. Greece and her people will always have a special place in my heart, and I’m sure to return.

And if you haven’t yet sampled the delights of this enchanting country ringed by the sparkling Ionian, Aegean & Mediterranean Seas, then as soon as you are able, I encourage you to book your flight and go and see, not just things and places, but meet the people that make it so unique. I had the distinct feeling that this short trip to Greece was going to live long in my memory. Kalinikta Hellas.

Hiking Mount Rainier, Washington State

Blog, Destinations, Travel, USA

Mount Rainier appeared like a mirage in the distance, summoning and calling us to ascend her snowy mantle. At last, my father, my brother and I set off towards her majestic peak beckoning to us for supreme adventure – and we were ready for that.

As we drove on and on, its icy cap filled the horizon with increasing dominance. Ascending higher and higher – we were heading for the Southern Cascades; that vast range of mountains that bisects Washington – reaching from the Canadian border down to the State of Oregon. We had arrived in the Olympic National Park, and our goal, the focus of our desire lay in front of us.

The excitement built and reached a crescendo as Rainier now loomed large in our field of view. Snowy vistas beckoned as we began our upward climb. Up and up through the snow we trudged, icy tentacles wrapping around our feet. The air was clear, still, and rarefied as we left civilization below us. The snowy peak was calling us, daring and challenging us to come up higher. Overcoming tiredness, aching limbs, and with a steely determination, Jonathan and I persevered and pushed on up the mountain.

This time with my brother was precious; bonding, shaping, and connecting. Separated by so much distance and so many years, at last we were together. Climbing, ascending with the Southern Cascades as our back drop, mighty rocky promontories reaching into the still, blue sky announcing their majestic and undeniable presence.

We reached 7000 feet, meeting triumphant and satisfied climbers who were descending from a much higher altitude. We were now up in the land of the gods: glaciers, snow fields, mountain goats and marmots.

Finding the source of the Nisqually River, I drank from its sacred spring. Clean, clear, cold and unimaginably refreshing, I allowed the water to invigorate and refresh my tired body. The glare of the snow continued to shine and dazzle in the afternoon sun. Photo opportunities abounded; I felt overwhelmed by the sheer beauty of our new environment.

Satisfied, and having gone as far as time, energy and the now waning sun would allow, we began our descent even pausing to engage with a Mountain Marmot who was very curious about what we were doing. Maybe posturing for confrontation or seeking food – we shall never know. But as we descended, we met more explorers, climbers and hikers who were also enjoying the icy delights of this snowy arena.

Regrouping down below and eventually drifting homeward, I reflected that it had been a day like no other. We had come and conquered, and now felt fulfilled, contented, and grateful for this time together enjoying the sheer magnificence that is Mount Rainier.

New Delhi, New India

Blog, Destinations, India, Travel

I have been travelling to India for almost 25 years now, and it is fair to say that I have seen a few changes over the years. I have seen this country dynamically shift in some ways, and in other ways not. I mean India still has masses of terribly poor people eking out a living from day to day, and admittedly, the very-poor have always existed alongside the super-rich. If you go to any major city like Delhi, Mumbai, Kolkata, or Chennai, you will see the slums and the skyscrapers together.

However, what is different now here in the 21st Century, is the emerging middle class, the young, ICT literate and upwardly mobile – that generation of Millennials that have reached adulthood. This was never more evidenced than when I was riding the Metro in Delhi last year. Smartly dressed young men and women absorbed with their smartphones, as interconnected and aware as the rest of us on planet earth.

Delhi’s Metro is ever expanding and easy to use. Colour coded footprints on the walkways help direct you to the right lines; it really is a thing of beauty and an enormous asset for all city dwellers. Sprawling out like a spider’s web across the nation’s capital it transports the young and beautiful, and the not so young and beautiful to wherever they so choose.

My friend Varun, from Varanasi but now living in Delhi with his family, remarked that once you’re inside the Metro system, it’s like being in the UK. However, the moment you emerge, you are back in India again. I knew exactly what he meant; the metro is relatively new and modern and yet when you come out it’s almost like you have been in a time warp, because you are back to the rickshaw wallahs, the roadside vendors, the noise, heat, and pollution. But this is always the way that India has been – rich and poor living side by side.

This is a vastly different story from when I first arrived in India back in November 1995. There was certainly no metro and the preferred method of transport was nearly always an auto-rickshaw, or an old ambassador taxi. But I guess now in this age of climate change, something had to give, because as you will know if you have ever visited Delhi, the smog there is fairly legendary. In fact, at times, it will bring the whole city to a halt because the visibility becomes so poor.

I always knew that air pollution was going to be a challenge for this emerging economic giant. The moment our 400 ton 747 landed with a heavy thud at Indira Gandhi International at Delhi, and its tyres screeched and smoked along the runway tarmac, I could smell the definite bitter, poisonous tang of heavy smog in the air. I cannot say that the air quality has massively improved since then, but with initiatives like greener, less polluting auto-rickshaws and the Delhi’s dazzling metro, things are sure to improve over time.