Enoteca Ciccimonelli (the Ciccimonelli Wine Cellar) Iglesias, Sardinia

I had indicated to my amiable host, Luciano, of Bed and Breakfast del Corso, that I was interested in wine tasting. And when I say that, I don’t just mean quaffing lots of wine but rather taking a more intellectual approach to this lovely activity. He directed me to Enoteca Ciccimonelli which is not just a very well stocked wine shop, but a very excellent restaurant too.

During my first visit the night before, I had met the owner and a young woman who I believe was his daughter, who served front of house. They told me that they are open as long as there are people around, but it had been a very quiet evening, so they were just locking up and about to go home. I promised them I would be back and I’m glad I did, as my visit the next day proved to be exceptional.

So, returning as planned, I readied myself for a superlative gastronomic journey. Having chosen a suitable outdoor seat and not wanting to waste a second, I ordered the sumptuous Seafood Platter whilst imbibing a glass of Cannonau, which had been poured into my beckoning glass. Cannonau is full bodied, luscious, bursting with mouth watering flavours and is undoubtedly the signature red on the island. I can now see why it is on sale at so many different restaurants, and it won’t cost you the earth either.

Chatting to the two waitresses at Ciccimonelli, one of them told me that she was earning money and wanted to get off the island to explore, study and work either on mainland Italy, Europe or somewhere around the world, because there is nothing really on Sardinia in terms of meaningful work. I began to understand that Sardinia may not be where the younger generation wants to remain long term, and I suspect that for these locals, the island could be viewed as geographically claustrophobic and limited in terms of opportunity.

Anyway, having quaffed and very much enjoyed my generous glass of Cannonau, this was followed by an aromatic Oristano, which was very golden in appearance like a dessert wine, but dry in taste. I sampled numerous wines during the evening, and each one was unpacked and explained to me very informatively. The two young women served me very ably and professionally and were obviously very well informed having been trained well by the restaurant owner I would imagine. The whole evening felt stylish and professional, and the evening concluded with a dessert wine to compliment the final, inevitable course on the menu.

My evening of quiet contemplation and enjoyment was then interrupted by the unpredictable Mediterranean weather, as lightning suddenly flashed across the night sky accompanied by a deep and ominous rumble of thunder. Two guys who were also eating outside then rushed into the restaurant to avoid the deluge of rain now falling from the sky. Having been to India numerous times, the ferocious downpour was slightly reminiscent of many monsoons I have witnessed over the years.

Almost immediately, the air began cooling, and rivulets of water washed down over the cobbled street from the persistent, heavy rain. I was sat under a huge umbrella and was enjoying being splashed gently by rain. The waitress asked me if I wanted to go inside too but I declined as I was still very much enjoying the alfresco dining experience, savouring delicious food eaten in the rain, albeit under a large canopy.

I eventually retired to the inside of Enoteca Ciccimonelli and ordered another drink. The shop was a veritable Aladdin’s cave, selling lots of lovely produce, including some locally made nougat! Well, I bought a delicious chunk of that, and having paid my bill, I left. When I got back to my apartment, I tore off the wrapper, and I was not disappointed with my local sweet treat.

In summary, Enoteca Ciccimonelli was a fabulous dining experience, and I would 100% recommend it. You will enjoy fabulous, local produce and receive the highest standards of service, and you really can’t ask for more than that, can you?

***All photos, except main header, courtesy of Enoteca Ciccimonelli***

Carbonia – Iglesias Part 3

Destinations, Italy, Travel

Marco, from the local tourism office, picked me up for the half-day car tour and heading southwest out of Iglesias, we drove towards Carbonia. As the beautiful and evocative landscape passed by my window, I listened to and imbibed his immense knowledge of the area. The Province of Carbonia-Iglesias in Southern Sardinia has a long history of mining which was very evident, as I had already seen the disused mining foundry on the outskirts of Iglesias, and now the empty and desolate mining complex at Monteponi. Finally arriving at our destination, I anticipated an interesting an informative morning, discovering more of this region’s rich history and cultural heritage.

Walking into the reception area, I discovered that Loredana was our guide for the morning. She was friendly and sparkling, and welcoming both Marco and I, made us feel right at home. We then joined with a large & excited party of Spanish students who were clearly enjoying themselves with this extra curricular learning opportunity, so Loredana spoke in English for them and for me, which was immensely helpful.

It was fascinating to learn about the town of Carbonia and how it had been built in the 1930’s by Mussolini, becoming active in 1937. Carbonia had been advertised and ‘sold’ in this way: The Italian people were called to come and work in the coal mine and Carbonia itself, in return for houses, jobs, amenities, a nice life and of course, money. Settling into their new environment, the inaugural citizens soon found they were giving a lot of their wages away in rent, fees and as a result, were paying for the upkeep of the new town. The Carbonians were not able to save because of the sheer cost of living, and weren’t very secure, financially.

And of course, there were the mining conditions, as the miners were working underground for 16 hours a day. It is hard to imagine in this day and age being underground for all of that time. Loredana told us that the new miners were becoming photo sensitive because they were in there in the dark for so long, and with all the dust and working conditions, it was not good at all. Carbonia wasn’t quite the ‘El Dorado’ that the new citizens had been led to believe. Our guide for the morning portrayed the story of Carbonia very vividly.

After I had told Loredana where I was from, she informed Marco and I that she had previously come to my home city of Bristol, purely to see the various Banksy pictures dotted here and there around the city. Relaying her own story of being a tourist, Loredana had found the city a really hip, enjoyable place to be, and did mention a particular Banksy picture which, if I understood her correctly, is his salute to the Johannes Vermeer’s 1665 painting, the ‘Girl with a Pearl Earring.’ His nod to the famous Dutch painter is tucked away on a wall in the Albion Dockyard on Hanover Place, which I realised that I have walked past on several occasions but have never noticed. Shame on me, but I will remedy this next time I visit the harbour area.

Loredana led us underground and we had a chance to explore the mine shafts or galleries (tunnels), examining several types of mining and excavation equipment. Notably, there was the ferocious and powerful looking continuous miner that tore coal straight off the coalface and fed it back onto a travelator / conveyor belt. The rock laden belt would then empty into an open mineral wagon, and off it would go, transported by the system of railways that had been purposely constructed for the speedy evacuation of the precious coal.

The maze of galleries (tunnels) was like an underground factory, and we were even shown the miners toilet, but I can’t remember how that worked exactly and wondered where it was emptied. It’s truly amazing the things that you consider! There were also hydraulic ramps, pistons and cantilevers reassuringly keeping the roof up because of the immense weight above our heads. Having little or no previous exposure to the workings of a coal mine, it was interesting exploring underground and seeing what life would have been like for the men that worked in those challenging and cramped conditions.

Typically, I managed to lose my sunglasses. They were hanging off my shorts pocket as I had walked back into the reception area, but later, I couldn’t find them. Loredana, who was always the very caring host, saw my obvious displeasure and asked me what was wrong. I confessed my temporary senility and told her that had I lost my sunglasses, but no sooner had I spoken the words out loud, one of the young Spanish students (God bless her), produced them from her bag and said she had found them. That was exceedingly kind, and a minor inconvenience was subsequently averted!

Saying our goodbyes to Loredana, we left Carbonia, heading southwest towards the island of Sant’Antioco and its town of the same name. I confess when Marco had initially proposed a visit to the mining complex and museum, I wasn’t entirely sure how engaging it would be. However, I am pleased to report that it was very much a worthwhile visit, and I was grateful that he included it in our itinerary for the morning. If you should find yourself in Carbonia-Iglesias, I encourage you to do the same.

*All images courtesy of the Coal Museum, CICC Italian Coal Culture Centre, Great Mine of Serbariu, 09013 Carbonia SU

Three Wise Men – Iglesias Part 2

Destinations, Food, Italy, Travel

My morning started at the excellent Modigliani Art Caffè on Piazza Municipio. Breakfast was provided here every day I was staying at the accommodation and consisted of a black coffee (or whatever form your preferred shot of caffeine takes), accompanied by a delicious, sweet pastry. The cafe looks across the square to the Cattedrale di Santa Chiara d’Assisi (Cathedral of Saint Claire of Assisi), and I admired and observed this beautiful and historic place of worship, looking resplendent in red and creamy coloured stone. There was something very enjoyable about sitting outside in the Sardinian sun, and sipping a gently steaming, aromatic coffee as the temperature started climbing towards the expected mid 30’s that were forecast for that day.

Luciano, my accommodation host, owns a number of properties in the town, including a clothing store on the Piazza Lamarmora, which his wife Becky manages. Meeting me for coffee outside the Cathedral, he showed me around Iglesias including a much-needed stop at the local tourist office. I was extremely glad to report that, both the lady behind the counter and a helpful chap called Marco both spoke English very well. Before you lambast me for not making more effort to learn the beautiful Italian language, or for that matter, Sardinian (also known as Sardo) I did make a feeble attempt using a very well-known language app on my phone, but it was clearly too little, too late. Sigh, story of my life. I continue to be grateful for technology and well-educated Europeans.

However, in no time at all, my travel plans and aspirations were starting to take shape as I joined a walking tour later that week, with Marco and a guy called Samuele who was from the Italian mainland. We strolled around Iglesias in a very relaxed fashion. This charming town is a very pleasant collection of pretty piazzas, narrow streets and lanes, a number of churches (Iglesias actually means ‘Churches’) and plenty of places to eat and drink. The most notable feature are the multi coloured umbrellas, hung over every main street around the centre of Iglesias, with assorted colours representing different districts of the town. It really is quite an enchanting sight.

The tour culminated with a brief ascent of the Torre Guelfa di Iglesias (Guelfa Tower), which commands impressive views over the town. A panorama of red roofed dwellings stretched out before us, including some social housing as well, and the now disused mining complex on the hills was clearly visible in the distance. Interestingly, Marco explained that the foundry was actually inside the hills, and they would vent the mine with various shafts and silos to allow the steam and the smoke to escape. However, there is no mining industry associated with Iglesias any longer.

Samuele and Marco would intermittently converse in English to include me, before lapsing back into the sweet chatter of Italian. Samuele was from Riva del Garda, in the Northern Alps but was now living and working in Turin in Piemonte. He told me that he had met an amazing girl in Turin who was from Iglesias, and he wanted to see what the town was like for himself. Well, I wasn’t surprised as Iglesias appeared to be replete with raven-haired, olive-skinned beauties. I considered the things we do for love, but Samuele’s story of his own Sardinian odyssey sounded like as good a reason as any to embark upon such a journey, and as a solo traveller, I was glad to make new friend.

As the blistering sun rose high in the sky, lunchtime inevitably beckoned, and we soon met with Luciano for yet more coffee, comparing notes and engaging in friendly chatter. After we had swapped WhatsApp numbers, Samuele later gave me a lift to Fontanamare Beach in a car he had borrowed from his brother or his friend, I can’t remember which. I was certainly glad to have gotten to know these three wise men though, all of whom had been so friendly and helpful and had much enhanced my trip to this fascinating island in the Tyrrhenian Sea. But, I have much more to write about, so until then… ciao.

Iglesias, Sardinia – Part 1

Destinations, Food, Italy, Travel

In the southwestern corner of the second-largest island in the Mediterranean, lies the town of Iglesias. The Island I am referring to is of course, Sardinia, directly south of Corsica and a few clicks northwest of Sicily. I’m betting you’ve never heard of Iglesias, and to be completely frank, neither had I until last summer. However, I have longed for many years to visit this glistening jewel in the Tyrrhenian Sea, and keen as I was for a break from work, I happened upon some very attractive and reasonable accommodation and booked it.

Emerging from Cagliari Airport, it was a very short walk to the nearby railway station where I waited patiently for my transport to Iglesias and what would be my home for the next 10 days. After a swift, nighttime journey across the island, my host Luciano and his wife Becky, were dutifully waiting for me at the small station where we both discovered that I could not speak Italian and they could not speak English. What to do? Well, it was Google Translate to the rescue, and before we knew it, literally nothing was lost in translation. Such is the modern techy world we now inhabit.

I was given a whistle stop tour of my lovely accommodation with a rapid explanation of the functionality of various devices, most notably, the air conditioning and the coffee maker. Then, late as it was, we made the short walk into the centre of Iglesias and stopped at a busy gastropub called Birroteca Fermentazioni Spontanee (Brewery Spontaneous Fermentations) on Via Cagliari. Luciano, having gone over and above the call of duty, left me in peace to savour the atmosphere and excitement of my new environment.

My menu choice for the evening was an immaculately presented and sumptuously tasting amberjack steak, washed down with a local beer (well it was hot, with day time temperatures regularly reaching mid 30’s), and by then I was very thirsty after all my travelling endeavours for the day that had begun many hours previous in Clifton, Bristol. I had a strong sense that I was going to really enjoy myself here in the hitherto unknown town of Iglesias. Tune in for the next episode, as they say…

Galata.

Destinations, Food, Travel, Turkey

Having now been to İstanbul and returned home, every time I see the city on the TV, there is one landmark that I am always on the lookout for: The Galata Tower. If nothing else, it is a perfect way of referencing İstanbul, and you can quickly and easily work out whereabouts in the city you are by taking sight of this notable structure. The Galata Tower was built in the 14th Century and replaced a much earlier, wooden version, and is siutuated in the Galata Neighbourhood of Beyoğlu, across the Haliç from Sultanahmet.

So I decided it was time to cross the Golden Horn from Sultanahmet to Karaköy and Beyoğlu. You can do this numerous ways: by metro, tram, bus, ferry or by the method I chose, on foot. Galata Bridge itself is a hubub of activity. Interestingly, it has 2 levels, so as far as the central arch where the boats pass through, you can walk underneath past rows of resturants and cafes. On top, you have innumerable fishermen tryng their luck with the busy, churning waters below.

So having strode across the Galata Bridge, I planted my feet firmly in Karaköy. Not far from that spot, (about 20 minutes walk), is the Pera Palace Hotel where Agatha Christie was a frequent guest and allegedly wrote ‘Murder on the Orient Express’ from her room, 411. I can well imagine that an extended sojourn in Istanbul would bring out the writer in many of us – it’s that kind of place that stimulates the senses and beckons you to imagine and explore.

It was well past lunchtime, so I was hungry, and wandering down a side street, I soon found myself at the Gümrük Resturant. Perched on a seat outside the restaurant, I contentedly watched the world go by. The menu was inviting, and service was really helpful and friendly. It was a refreshing change from the usually overpriced tourist fare on offer in Sultanahmet, and almost immediately, you felt you were getting more ‘bang for your buck.’ The whole offering was much more acceptable and excellent in my opinion. Having been seated at my outdoor table, I ordered a glass of Efes beer which appears to be the local brew and was most acceptable. To accompany this, I ordered Pasta with Turkish Metaballs, and for 190 Turkish Lira (about £4.70), was good value for money.

The inside of the resturant was really interesting and I had a quick look around before I sauntered off down the lane and encountered some old guys passing the time of day who didn’t seem to be that keen on me taking their photo. Notwithstanding that, I carried on and headed for my next port of call: Galata Tower. This great stone edifice sits atop a hill and commands an unparlelled view (more about that later), so it was a reasonable slog to ascend said hill. Nearing the top, I was grateful to meet an elderley gent selling cold, bottled water for the very reasonable price of 5 Turkish Lira (£0.12).

Having been suitably refreshed, I pushed on up the hill towards Galata Tower itself. This obviously very popular tourist attraction was loudly and vividly announced by the sheer magnitude of people queuing to get inside and climb the ancient stone steps. I hurriedly bought my ticket from the booth, joined the long line and waited my turn as we slowly, but surely, edged towards the entrance. I remember watching a film recently long after my return from Istanbul, that featured the Galata tower, and the main character entered through the doorway into a palatial hallway with numerous rooms. It is nothing like that inside; it is as you would expect a stone, cilyndrical tower to be.

There are 3 levels that you can view İstanbul from, and all are equally breathtaking. İstanbul is a vast metropolis. I wouldn’t normally use the word metropolis, but with the size and vastness of this city, it seems to lend itself to that very word. I remember hearing an american guy talking on the phone, who sounded like a reporter, as he vividly and enthusiastically decsribed the panorama that lay before him. His account and depiction of Istanbul was so compelling that I really wanted to hear the entire conversation, but not wanting to appear to be eavesdropping, I slowly moved away. I remember thinking that we Brits lack some of that passion and excitement at times, because we are too busy being English and cool about everything. It’s good to be thrilled about a place, and there was much to stimulate the senses in this city where Europe reaches out and touches Asia.

As you stare out across this expanse of buildings and people, in any direction, you will see something interesting. Gazing out over the rooftop bars, restaurants, and people’s homes with their laundry drying in the sun, you can see so much, whether you are looking up the Haliç towards the Western District, or south towards Eminonou and Sultanahmet, with the impressive Sulamaniaye mosque commanding prime position. Alternatively, you can view the Bosphorus, snaking away into the distance, under the bridge of the same name, as it makes it’s slow and ponderous way north towards the Black Sea and Ukraine.

Gazing in the opposite direction, you will witness a never ending conveyeor belt of ocean going vessels travelling up from the Mediterranean, having navigated the Dardenelles Strait, and now coming clearly into view across the Sea of Marmara with the Prince’s Islands shimmering on the far horizon. For me, the Galata Tower is the ultimate lookout in İstanbul, situated as it is in the heart of the city, but nonetheless offering the most impressive of views. It is 100% worth your time and pennies, and so if you should find yourself here on the edge of Asia, factor it into your itinerary as it will not disappoint at all.

İstanbul, Eminönü, Haliç and a trip up the Bosphorus.

Destinations, Travel, Turkey

Is it Europe or is it Asia? Geographically both, but İstanbul feels like Asia with some European influence and is a flavoursome melting pot of each continent. Admittedly, I did spend most of my time on the European side, but yet there is still a heavy Asian influence, with a proliferation of mosques and Islamic script in every district of Istanbul, and the wailing sound of the Muezzins across the city issuing their call to prayer. And even though İstanbul is a mere 1,555 miles from London, it feels like a long way from home.

There is so much to see in this colossal city (population of approximately 15.8 million), you could stay for weeks, maybe months, and still not exhaust the list of things to do or see. Beyond the major sights like the Hagia Sophia, the Blue Mosque, Topkapi Palace and the Galata Tower, there is a whole slice of İstanbul life just waiting to be explored. Thankfully, İstanbul is well served with public transport, so getting from A to B isn’t too much of a problem. In fact, it isn’t a problem at all.

So, here I was in İstanbul, and a whole raft of adventures lay before me. Calling briefly at the tourist information office, very conveniently located just off Sultanahmet Park and not far from the Hagia Sophia, I got some information about entrance fees for museums and duly helped myself to bundles of leaflets about various tours and things to do. Armed with my Lonely Planet, I quickly exited the building to explore this great city. I soon found that İstanbul can be quite overwhelming, as there is so much to see and take in. It is a city full of myriad sights, experiences, sounds and smells.

Looking northeast over the Bosphorus
Looking south over Halic, towards the Sea of Marmara

The next challenge was buying the all-important red İstanbulkaart which was another hurdle, I and many other tourists had to overcome. Eventually, I purchased one from this chap who was hanging around the charging station conveniently located by the tram stop, probably for a slightly more inflated price than what I would have paid at the Metro station. Nonetheless, it opened wide the gateway to public transport. Another reason I wanted to purchase an İstanbulkaart so quickly was I wanted to use the public toilets nearby, and one method of entry was yes, you guessed it, this humble but now vital little red card (same colour as the Turkish flag).

Istanbulkaart & local currency
Street signs near the Blue Mosque
Turkish Tea Set
Minaret
View from the restaurant

Later, I headed down to the waterfront at Eminönü where many of the ferries dock, and being frenetic, noisy and lively, it became a fascinating insight into İstanbul life around the water. If you want to get around the city, then by boat is best and sooner or later, you will eventually arrive here. Eminonu is the vital crossing-over point to other districts of Istanbul; by ferry or over the Galata Bridge on foot, by bus, car or tram. The Metro uses the Golden Horn, or Halic Bridge, further up the estuary. Whether you are heading to Karaköy, Beşittaş, or Kadıköy, there will be a ferry or some other suitable mode of transport for you.

The busy waterways of İstanbul are alive with water-borne craft and floods of people on them, and once I had worked out that the İstanbulkaart was my ticket to ride, resembling a multi-purpose Oyster card, I used it with great liberality. I now realise why there never seemed to be any ticket office staff at the ferry docks; you just don’t need them. You can use the İstanbulkaart on ferries, trams, buses and the Metro after you have applied some credit to it by presenting the card at one of the innumerable charging stations across the city and stuffing the machine with Turkish Lira (you can use your credit card but cash is simpler). You can then travel in any direction and on just about anything you fancy for a very cheap price.

And that is what I did. By the end of the week, I was getting about like a local, even giving some confused visitors instructions on how they could get to their chosen destination. As would be expected in an area laden with tourists, there were plenty of ticket touts selling overpriced circular boat trips, but thinking this would be a superb way of viewing this vast metropolis as a whole from the water, I purchased my ticket and boarded the boat with a mass of other tourists eager to experience maritime joy with a cruise up the Bosphorus.

The boat left the ferry dock and we surged out over slightly rough water disturbed by a gusting sea breeze, heading in the direction of the Bosphorus Bridge and the Black Sea beyond it. Hugging the European bank of this iconic Strait and cruising past the beautiful and ornate Dolmabahçe Palace in Beşittaş, we turned in the shadow of the Bosphorus Bridge and sailed down the Asian side of İstanbul, before heading back to ferry docks at Eminönü.

There is nothing like being with a boatload of passengers and observing first-hand the many and varied interactions between families, friends, honeymooning couples, tourists and others. İstanbul is magnetic in its draw towards visitors from all over the world and there is much to be gained, experienced, viewed, savoured and enjoyed. This city that forms the bridge between Asia and Europe will leave a lasting impression on you and will provide a lifetime of memories that will neither diminish or fade.

İstanbul.

Destinations, Travel, Turkey

Baking in the heat and humidity of the late summer sun in coastal İstanbul, I began to explore, observe, listen and understand this new environment, discovering again that cities are wonderful places to people watch. There is a burgeoning population here of almost 18 million locals, jostling alongside waves of fascinated tourists from around the world thronging to see the ancient wonders of this ‘second’ city in Western Turkey. In regard to touristic overload, it reminded me of the packed crowds of travellers in Venice, but, I am an İstanbul newbie and everything is just wow.

İstanbul sits between the Sea of Marmara to the south and the Black Sea to the North. It’s also famously that bridge between Asia in the East and Europe in the West. It feels truly significant and magnificent… Roman, Byzantine, and Ottoman influences and architecture dot the city as İstanbul’s Islamic culture and religion continue to dominate life here in this modern, busy metropolis. There are mosques everywhere you look, of varying shapes and sizes, but all of them are architectural triumphs and ornately, and beautifully fashioned.

İstanbul is big, in fact, it is huge. A city built on seven hills, set on both sides of the Bosphorus Strait, there is a lot of life and much going on here. There are numerous districts on both the European and Asian side, but I was staying in the proverbial thick of it, in Sultanahmet. Here you will discover 3 of the most prominent and sought-after sights: the Aya Sofya, the Blue Mosque (Sultanahmet Camii) and the pavillions and harem of Topkapı Palace. The call to prayer rings out regularly across Sultanahmet at the expected times in the daily Islamic calendar, summoning the devout and pious to prayer and worship. Its mournful cry reverberates across the city and is of course deeply emblematic of this and every Islamic nation.

There is so much to see in İstanbul: Byzantine and Ottoman treasures galore. It’s a little challenging to know where to start but you have to start somewhere. One thing you quickly realise is that in İstanbul, boats are king, because there is so much water everywhere and they appear to be the preferred means of transport. Sultanahmet, the Bazaar and Western Districts nestle in the south, and they are separated from Beyoğlu, Karaköy and Beşitaş in the north by a large stretch of water called the Golden Horn, locally known as, Haliç. But If boats aren’t your thing, then the city is ably served with an extensive tram and metro network too.

To the East, the Asian side of İstanbul (principal area of interest is Kadıköy), is sperated by the main Bosphurus Strait. I remember gazing down at these waterways from Topkapı Palace, and the seeemingly imnumrable boats criss-crossing this way and that, and I counted about 60 vessels in the water at any one time. Significantly, there is steady flow of maritime traffic coming up from the Mediterranean via the Dardanelles Strait, and across the Sea of Marmara, heading towards various ports in the Black Sea. I’m slightly suprised there aren’t more boat crashes, because they all seem to be going in different directions at the same time!

There is much more to say about the city of İstanbul, but this will suffice for now as I gather my thoughts and consider what an absorbing, engaging and pervasive experience this visit was.

Colossus

Destinations, Travel, Turkey

Arriving into Istanbul by air simply takes your breath away. Passing the Bulgarian border into the far western landscape of Turkey, you soon find yourself skirting the northern coast of the Sea of Marmara heading towards Istanbul.

As the plane banks left and thunders north towards the main international airport, in the direction of the Black Sea, you cannot be anything but amazed.

Huge. That is the only way of describing the city of Istanbul and its environs. Seemingly endless. That would be another alternative in describing this vast slice of human habitation.

Eventually escaping the airport and driving back towards Sultanahmet, as you approach the Ataturk Bridge, you are once again overwhelmed by the sheer scale of Turkey’s ‘second city,’ (Ankara is actually the capital).

In this deeply Islamic country, there would seem to be a mosque atop every hill, and whatever your religious or spiritual predilections maybe, architecturally and historically, they are a magnetically fascinating and engaging sight.

JAM, Kenya

Blog, Destinations, Kenya, Travel

In the far reaches of Western Kenya, a charity known as Justice and Mercy, has been reaching out to the poor and disadvantaged for over 25 years. Founded in 1997 by Rachel Woolmer and Amanda Thomas, JAM is the classic, ‘from small acorns, great trees grow’ organisation.

In April 2022, I travelled to Oyugis in Western Kenya with Rachel Woolmer, to see this work that had been started all those years ago. And not only to witness what JAM were achieving now but to meet the local people that were running this charitable outreach to the poor. Principally, we came to meet Kennedy Okoth Otieno, appointed CEO from the start and still in situ today.

We began our time by meeting the staff at JAM headquarters, just down the road from Kennedy’s house. We talked with staff running the office, the finance director and some of the medical personnel who were preparing for the influx of patients for their newly, government-funded clinic. With this funding in place, they will be able to provide much-needed healthcare for the people living in the villages nearby.

We visited the baby unit that was equipped to help women through the trauma of childbirth and beyond. It’s so wonderful that these facilities exist here in what is quite a remote region of Kenya, with many people living in the hills and on the plains in villages nearby. It was with pride that Kennedy was able to show us around and demonstrate what was on offer.

Alongside the medical facilities, we were shown the piece of ground within the JAM campus known as the demonstration plot. Here, local people are shown the best ways of cultivating drought-resistant crops and how to achieve the highest yield. It really is a great way of helping local villagers in a sustainable and positive way, re-educating them for the best possible outcomes.

The next morning we had a lovely time with the staff in the on-campus chapel where I was able to share some encouragement with the team. We later climbed into the JAM off-road vehicle and we visited some of the villages that are working with and benefiting from JAM intervention through their food security and animal husbandry schemes. This is all about making these villages self-sustainable and giving them a more positive and profitable future.

I spoke with Kennedy Okoth Otieno, Director & CEO of JAM, and he told me that they are seeking to ‘sow the seeds of a brighter future’ through transformation of “…rural community widows, poor farmers, people living with HIV, and Vulnerable Children.” Since 1995 when JAM began, God has guided Kennedy on His own path to mould this organization into a “…community-based organisation currently running five important projects: Integrated Health and community clinic, Food Security through Rural Organic farming, Education and psycho-social support, Water and sanitation, and finally Peacebuilding and reconciliation in western Kenya.”

Apart from coordinating these vital projects, Kennedy has also spent much time engaged in fundraising and doing presentations at international conferences, churches, and institutions. In addition, In 2019, he was honoured by a German international organization through the award of a Ph.D. Scholarship to undertake PhD in Development Studies.

In between his studies, Kennedy works for the organization twice a week, with a view to becoming a consultant within this field in the future. This, he feels, will help to expand fundraising and partnership with churches and schools.

Kennedy and his family accommodated us during our time in Oyugis and were so hospitable treating us to some real Kenyan food including that most Kenyan of all staples: Ugali. This really is an alternative to rice and goes well with fish, meat, and vegetables.

The Kenyans are such a musical and joyous people and we often met with singing when we visited different villages, which was a lovely experience in itself. I love that JAM is making a real, palpable difference in the lives of local Kenyans.

Kenya, East Africa 2022

Blog, Destinations, Kenya, Travel

I have wanted to come to Africa for many years, but my travels have taken me frequently to South Asia. So, when I had clear opportunity to visit Kenya in East Africa, proverbial wild horses could not have stopped me.

Having been a frequent visitor to the Indian subcontinent, there was something familiar with the climate, vegetation, roadside stalls and shops and just the feel of the country. However, culturally, Africa is very different from India. Of course these differences only served to heighten my enjoyment of my new environment, if only for the sake of variety.

Kenya is without doubt a beautiful country, and one week in, I was really loving it. Staying with a family initially in Oyugis, we had met plenty of locals which is a fantastic way to begin to understand a nation and its culture. And culture of course is everything – the way a nation feels, thinks, reacts, behaves and basically does life is all part and parcel of what we call culture.

For me, travel has always been about the people you meet and not just the places you visit. Having said that, Kenya is massively replete with adventures and amazing places to see. Whether you love the coast, want to visit mountains, go on safari, explore a tea plantation, Kenya will keep producing the goods, again and again.

And without doubt, I will be returning to Kenya. I mean, why wouldn’t you? Admittedly, there were some security concerns with the current elections going on, and a potential terrorism threat mainly in the North East from Al Shabaab (a result of the Kenyan military intervention in Somalia), but the draw of East Africa is simply magnetic. So yes, I will definitely be coming back, and what is more, I would encourage you to do the same. Just be careful and vigilant, but more than anything, enjoy it…